The magic of Lofoten (Source: Own photo)
The Lofoten archipelago comprises seven main islands and countless smaller ones, which are located to the west of the Norwegian mainland roughly between the 67th and 69th northern parallels. Some people claim the name Lofoten means 'wall', because the archipelago gives the impression of an impenetrable barrier as you approach on the ferry from Bodø. However, this is incorrect. Lofoten is apparently old Norse and means ‘foot of the lynx’.
Lofoten emerges from the mist like a jagged wall as you approach on the ferry from Bodø (Source: Own photo)
Lofoten has been the home of cod fishing for a thousand years. There is good fresh fish to be had here, but they catch so many they cannot possibly eat them all, so they dry the left-over fish in the cold air and wind on wooden racks on the foreshore. 'Tørrfisk', stockfish in English, is unsalted cod, and should not to be confused with the salted variety, which is called 'klippfisk'.
Racks for drying cod (Source: own photo)
Norway's longest sustained export commodity, Tørrfisk from Lofoten is considered the very best. Great quantities are exported to Nigeria, where it provides flavour and protein in many soups and even makes up the main ingredient in the popular delicacy known as Ofe Okazi.
It may be a bit fishy, but it is good! (Source: own photo)
Another Lofoten attraction is the 'national' football stadium at Henningsvær, the archipelago's cultural capital. Uniquely, the stadium has neither stands nor seats, so spectators must sit on the nearby rocks or remain on their feet. On the other hand, the backdrop is unbeatable.
The stadium without seating at Henningsvær (Source: own photo)
Still, Lofoten's real attraction is undoubtedly nature. The landscapes are probably the most stunning in all of Norway. Only 25,000 people call Lofoten their home, but more than a million visit as tourists every year. And they come here for the great outdoors.
Big vistas are big tourism in Lofoten (Source: own photo)
In Lofoften, you find steep mountains and peaks, sheltered inlets, stretches of sandy seashore, and large areas without any people at all, all suffused in fresh ocean air. There are otters and elk. The sea is full of fish. The air is full of birds.
Sandy beaches (Source: Own photo)
Inlets with strong currents of crystal clear water (Source: Own photo)
The low-lying areas that line the inlets between Lofoten’s peaks are lush with seaweed, grasses, flowers, and plentiful bird and animal life. I took the pictures below around Fredvang and along the sheltered east coast at the southern end of the archipelago.
Lush landscapes along inlets and the coast (Source: own photo)
Strong ocean currents known as ‘maelstroms’ form in the sea between the island of Mosken and Lofoten Point on Moskenesøya. We went to the area, but saw no maelstroms. Instead, we saw, at anchor, just off Lofoten Point, the research vessel Capella C, which can be hired by anyone with research to be done in the Polar region.
Capella C at anchor in maelstrom waters (Source: own photo)
We stayed at Hamnøy, a village just north of Reine. You can rent little self-contained red wooden huts called ’rorbuer’, which in old days were used to house visiting fishermen in the cod season. The location is unbeatable.
The Eliassen Rorbuer huts in Hamnøy (Source: own photo)
A small activity centre nearby offers Kayak rides for those keen to enjoy the midnight sun. My guide was Román, a friendly and very experienced man, who hails from Barcelona, but has spent years living in Norway, Greenland, and other parts of the Arctic.
Midnight Sun kayaking in Hamnøy (Source: own photo)
The kayak trip with Román took us around Reinefjorden and into Reine harbour, where we passed a whaling boat (easily recognised by the look-out barrel in the mast). Alongside Japan, Norway has long insisted on killing whales in spite of a moratorium by the International Whaling Commission. In May 2004, the Norwegian Parliament increased the number of minke whales that can be hunted each year. In 2018, the whaling quota was increased again by 30% to 1,278 minke whales per year, but in 2022 the quota was reduced to 917. The annual catch fluctuates between 400 and 600 minke whales. Nowadays, whaling boats kill minkes with explosive charges, which are said to have increased the instant-death-rate (yes, there is such a thing) to about 80%.
A whaler in Reine harbour (Source: own photo)
Whaling is obviously a total anachronism. Yet, the Norwegian whaling lobby is strong. Proponents argue that the livelihoods of individuals and small firms depend on shooting exploding charges into the bodies of these awesome creatures and that this type of killing is an important part of the culture in coastal areas. I have no doubt they are right; people do terrible things in the name of culture (here is a link to the first instalment in my series on the dark side of culture)
Our route through Lofoften to Tromsø (Source: here)
Having arrived to Loftoten by ferry from Bodø, we left Lofoten along the main highway north to Tromsø, a total journey of about 550 kms. The entire route is spectacular, so it is worth taking one's time. En route, we stayed one night in the small Thai-run Bogen Hostel on the shore of Ofotfjorden, where we saw porpoise from terrace of our cosy cabin. The next leg of our journey would take us further north. Leaving the car at the airport at Tromsø, we hopped on a plane. Next stop Svalbard!
The End
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